Present – Past – FutureRebirth Travel Story
Dewa Sanzan（出羽三山） – "the Three Mountains of Dewa" – refers to Mount Haguro (羽黒山、414 m), Mount Gassan (月山、1,984 m), and Mount Yudono (湯殿山、1,504 m), which tower over central Yamagata Prefecture.
It's said that about 1,400 years ago, Prince Hachiko, the son of Emperor Sushun, designated these mountains as sacred.
Mount Haguro is the mountain where supplications
for happiness in this life are made ("present").
Mount Gassan is the mountain where supplications
for comfort and rebirth after death are made ("past").
Mount Yudono is the mountain where supplications
for rebirth are made ("future").
In this connection, worshipping at Dewa Sanzan spread among commoners in the Edo period as a
"journey of rebirth" traveling around the present, past, and future.
The Ishidan Stone pilgrimage is a shrine-visit plan designed so that anyone can experience this "journey of rebirth."
The New Self You Meet in the
Ishidan Stone Pilgrimage
（石段詣）
The 2,446 stone steps along Mount Haguro's approach –
in the "Ishidan Stone pilgrimage,"
you climb these steps wearing a white sash.
The stone steps are surrounded by mystical cedar trees,
and have been conferred certified
with three Michelin Green Guide stars.
Hone your five senses, feel time and the air,
and walk at your own pace.
Your heart will be freed,
and you'll encounter a new inner self.
Ishidan Stone pilgrimage sash fee: 1,000 yen
Registration: Mount Haguro Zuishinmon reception office
or Sanshuden (summit)
Meaning of Wearing the White Sash（注連/しめ）
The sash signifies a boundary, and is used to prevent evil spirits from haunting the mountain. Its ties originate from the belts worn by ascetic monks, the knots meaning "spiritual ties (ties with Shintoism and Buddhism)." For this reason, Haguro worshippers originally removed the sashes at the bridge in front of the Haraigawa River after finishing their Mount Haguro pilgrimage, and hung them on what was called the "sash-hanging cherry tree," the crossing the bridge and returning to the real world.
In the Ishidan Stone pilgrimage, you can take your white sash home as a souvenir.
Ishidan Stone Pilgrimage –
Access to Mount Haguro（羽黒山）
The Mount Haguro of the Ishidan Stone pilgrimage is located in the city of Tsuruoka, Yamagata Prefecture, known as the Shonai region. It takes about 30 minutes to get there by car from Tsuruoka.
【By Car】
About 10 km from Tsuruoka Interchange on Yamagata Expressway via the Tsuruoka/Haguro Line, about 15 km from Shonai Asahi Interchange, and about 30 km from Shonai Airport
Note: The road to the summit of Mount Haguro is the Mount Haguro Toll Road. Please use it during operating hours. Please check the Shonai Kotsu website for fares and operating times.Shonai Traffic (shonaikotsu.jp).(shonaikotsu.jp)
【By Bus】
About 50 minutes from Tsuruoka City by Shonai Kotsu Bus bound for Haguro-sancho -> Get off at the last stop.
Dewa Sanzan special feature
https://www.tsuruokacity.com/dewasanzan
Dewa Sanzan official website
http://www.dewasanzan.jp/en/publics/index/1/
Flow of the Ishidan Stone Pilgrimage
Register at the Zuishinmon（随神門） reception office or Sanshuden（参集殿） (summit).
Scan the QR code, show the registration screen, receive your white sash（注連）, and start off!
Register at Zuishinmon reception office or Sanshuden
National Treasure Five-Storied Pagoda
Ninosaka Teahouse
Main approach and cedar trees
Main approach and cedar trees
Ninosaka Teahouse sashes are presented here.
Haniyamahime Jinja Shrine
Scan the QR code at Sanshuden (summit) or Zuishinmon reception office.
At the end, please notify a staff member and scan the goal QR code. We'll tell you what number you finished at.
There's also a lottery, and if you win you get a mini present! Look forward to it!
Pay your respects at Sanjingosaiden before or after the Ishidan Stone pilgrimage.
AscentDescent
Walking: Approx. 60-90 min.／Distance: Approx 1.7 km
Attaching Enishi-himo Cords to the
What Sash for Wishes
At the Zuishinmon reception office and Sanshuden registration areas for the Ishidan Stone pilgrimage, we present enishi-himo cord. Please tie them onto your white sash with your wishes.
Red: Love luck Yellow: Money luck Green: Health luck Purple: Academic success White: Livelihood luck
Note: Enishi-himo cord offerings go towards maintaining the stone steps (approach); they are 200 yen per sash.
How to Use Enishi-himo Cords
There are five types of enishi-himo cords: red (love luck), yellow (money luck), green (health luck), purple (academic success), and white (livelihood luck). Tie them onto your white sash with your wishes.
-
1Choose based on your wish.
(Initial offering: 200 yen per cord) -
2Tie it onto your white sash. -
3Any number tied brings blessings.
Taking a Break at Ninosaka
On Mount Haguro's approach are steep slopes called Ichinosaka, Ninosaka, and Sannosaka. The Ninosaka slope, which is especially long and steep, is also called Abura-koboshi ("oil-spill hill"), and is said to be where Musashibo Benkei spilled the oil he carried as an offering, due to the precipitous incline.
To the left after climbing that grueling Ninosaka is Ninosaka Teahouse. The members of the Takagi family running the teahouse climb the stone steps every day to make homemade rice cakes and green tea, and wait to serve visitors. From the teahouse you can see a panoramic view of the Shonai Plain – it's magnificent.
The city of Tsuruoka is located in the western part of Yamagata Prefecture alongside the Sea of Japan. In 2014, it became designated as the first UNESCO "Creative City of Gastronomy" in Japan. Three "Japan Heritages" are featured here: Dewa Sanzan's Journey of Rebirth, the Samurai Silk, and the Kitamae-bune Maritime Road.
Other unique attractions that make Tsuruoka a valuable destination include 1,400-year-old sacred mountains: Mount Yudono, Mount Gassan, and Mount Haguro; beautiful forests; the Kamo Aquarium, which boasts the biggest jellyfish display in the world; and a unique culinary culture.
Getting to Tsuruoka, Yamagata
From Tokyo Haneda Airport, Tsuruoka can be reached in about an hour.
Rail access from Tokyo, Niigata, and Yamagata is also convenient.
Tsuruoka is also accessible by bus from Sendai in Miyagi Prefecture.
Teach Me Shrine Basics!
Twenty-five-year-old Kaneko from Akita is a local community producer working on regional revitalization. He's been involved with Tsuruoka local businesses for two years and wants to learn more about Dewa Sanzan. He visits shrines often, but still has many questions, so he asked Dewa Sanzan Jinja Shrines' Yoshizumi about shrine basics he's embarrassed not to know.
I don't understand the difference between shrines and temples. Could you please start by telling me about that?
Basically, shrines sanctify deities and temples enshrine the Buddha. Shinto (shrines) venerates nature and spirits residing in mountains, rivers, and plants, whereas temples (Buddhism) were transmitted to Japan as idol worship (form-based).
I see! So in Japan, people sensed divinity in surrounding nature and directed their prayers to it.
There are many deities in Japan – it's said they number eight million.
I rely too much on those many deities, always buying talismans whenever I visit shrines. Is it okay to have many of them?
Deities have specialties, so there's no conflict. See it as them conferencing in heaven to power your talismans.
So it's fine to have lots!
Yes, but just having talismans isn't enough. The deities see "this person still lacks effort" or "doesn't have enough gratitude" – they're always watching us. Be aware of such obvious things, progress daily, and regard talismans as an "IOU" towards fulfilling wishes.
So we can't trick the deities.... How long should I keep a talisman?
Ideally, depending on the wish, return and offer thanks when it's granted. For long-term wishes, power weakens gradually if kept beyond a year, so I recommend getting new talismans around New Year's. And don't forget to show heartfelt gratitude when returning them.
I thought keeping them was good, but changing is better! Got it. I make a lot of wishes during shrine visits, but is that greedy?
I believe that the main purpose of shrine supplications should be showing gratitude for daily life – this life we're allowed. These wishes are only heard on the basis of that gratitude.
Gratitude is important! I'll reconsider my attitude. Is there any etiquette when making supplications?
Visiting a shrine is like going to someone's home, so bow before passing under the torii gate. The approach is said to be the deities' path, so avoid walking in the middle. Purify your hands and mouth at the chozuya font. The supplication procedure is two bows, two claps, then one bow.
Why rinse your mouth, too?
Originally you should purify mind and body in a river or the sea before worship as courtesy to the deities, but rinsing the hands and mouth replaces that, letting you make your supplication in a cleaner state.
I see – it's necessary when meet the deities. I'll mind my manners properly when making shrine visits.One thing I'm always curious about is omikuji fortunes. I want to keep drawing until I get a "daikichi" great blessing, but should I stop at one?
To start with, thinking "great blessing is best" is wrong. "Small blessing," "future blessing," and even "curse" are written with big hints for the path you should take. See them as signposts for living humbly, not something to draw multiple times.
I see! Omikuji are "signposts for living humbly"! I'll face them with humility. For the last thing, please teach me about unlucky years. I seem to be in later unlucky years now...and I haven't done anything particular to prepare for unlucky years. I'm wondering what I should have done. Please tell me about these unlucky years.
By ancient records, unlucky years go by age as traditionally counted – men at 25, 42, and 61, and women at 19, 33, and 37. These ages are held to be prone to misfortune. Some say 42 for men and 33 for women are greatest unlucky years, with the years immediately before and after called the first and later unlucky years. These are milestone life ages, and a warning against overexertion with respect to both health and work.
Life milestones! Making supplications then brings peace of mind. Thank you!